Saturday, 26 July 2014

One Song Yoga; Wahe Guru

So I did it, I qualified, yeah! Wow what a whirlwind month it has been but what an amazing one at that, I still feel slightly in shock that I did it and finally committed to it but also feel overwhelmed how quickly it went and without any hiccups, it was a blissful, inspiring and mind opening month and I am so thankful to Denise and Bex for the experience I had, I wanted to commit myself to writing a full post in relation to my training experience as feel it’s so important to spread the message of the importance of yoga, without it being a stereotypical hipster thing to do, I remember I told one friend I was thinking of training whilst travelling and his reply was ‘you and every other fucker’ ouch!  I could totally see his point though and even more so when away, the ongoing conversations had through India of people studying here and there, the schedules sounded hardcore though and not the yoga I wanted to be able to share with others, I couldn’t find the right training I wanted to commit a month too, nothing inspired me and I kind of decided that maybe it just wasn’t the right time to train, which was fine, I kind of stopped looking by the end of India, I chose to enjoy my yoga practice for what it was and the right course would come up one day.
We when we arrived in Ubud we chose to stay a week and relax, I had read about the Yogabarn when researching yoga studios before coming away, so decided to go and attend a few classes there. I signed up for a few amazing workshops, and saw a Yin Yoga class that I fancied, I have only done one Yin class on my 30th birthday last year, I remember the teacher in Vietnam gave me the choice for the class that morning and I chose a Yin practice, it stayed with me as it was so relaxing and really made me feel a therapeutic sense of ease that was just truly beautiful, however when returning to the London I hadn’t found any classes nearby so therefore had just enjoyed that one experience, how lucky I thought trying it again in Ubud.
I can literally say going to Denise’s class changed my life, I can’t fully explain how or why, maybe it was the tennis balls (I will get to that), the information shared on the practice we were doing, the way she taught or the Yin practice whatever element it was I left that class so moved and energized for change that I knew I had to train with her and share the knowledge she had with others, luckily for me she was running a course two weeks later, after a discussion with Sam,  I was signed up to her course by the next day and ready to start training on the 18th June.
Denise’s training, One Song Yoga, is put forward as not your average training course, stepping beyond the physical and commercialization of the spiritual and offering the key to transformation of your own mind and body, it covers 4 different styles of yoga Power, Vinyasa, Hatha and Yin. When reading the leaflet and talking with Denise I just felt this course differed from any other I have read about or heard about and I felt it really sat with my principles of yoga practice in current society and would marry well with my previous counselling training.
My reasons for wanting to train in yoga is to bring this into my counseling/therapy work as I feel it can be a real benefit to clients I work with, I also feel Yin Yoga holds such important principles in allowing people to relax in their yoga practice and encourages people to take time out to actually slow down and be with themselves for 90mins, it works with the connective tissue and moves stuck energy that for some people can be causing such trauma in their lives, for me to bring this into therapy work will make great changes for the client, allowing them to start to understand their body more on both a physical and emotional level. 
Denise first class I took worked with both Myo Fascial and Yin, the Myo Fascial Release  is a soft tissue therapy for the treatment of the skeletal muscle. The Yin Yoga being more a therapeutic meditative style of yoga that works with the connective tissues, the poses used in Yin Yoga work by moving energy through the body to improve organ health and emotional well being, with both of these practices combined together in one class you can maybe see why I had a life changing moment in Denise’s class.

The training started on June 18th and I was delighted to find it was a small class of only 10 people, we talked about what we wanted from the course and a small bit about ourselves, it was so interesting hearing peoples reasons for doing the course and although some were to be able to teach a lot were about their own yoga journey and practice. It was explained to us how the course would run and how we were able to choose which classes we wanted to par take in, both our teachers teach at the Yogabarn therefore we had a number of different classes in power yoga, vinyasa yoga, yin yoga, acro yoga and restorative yoga, I was so pleased to hear the diverse range we could chose to work with and although I planned to try all I knew my preferred choice would be the more yin, restorative, therapeutic style classes, however I did par take in a few vinyasa classes as this was the style I practiced at home.

That morning we took our first two classes of power and yin and after 3hrs of yoga I was so excited to be lucky enough to do this for the next 28 days.

The course definitely opened another range of emotions I had carefully tucked away, it was challenging in ways that is hard to understand unless you’re in that physical and emotional journey of yoga, I remember one vinyasa class with Bex, I went into Hanumasana and just broke down crying, I really understood the term ‘crying your way through hip openers’. When learning about this reaction and why this happens I started to understand our chakras more and how hip openers open our second chakra, Svadhisthana who’s identity is emotion and can develop between 6 months and 2 years, wow, my mind blew learning this and related so much to my own life changes around that age.  From working with Erickson’s stages of developmental I was now working with a whole new psychology system which related to our bodies and yoga, I was drawn to learn more and was recommended a book called eastern body, western mind which has now become my travel companion for learning more about this sacred chakra system (Denise informed me to wait till the course has finished before delving into this book as it will be a life informing read).
We carried out a whole day related to the chakras, no one knew how the day would go but we were told to wear bright colours and bring a friend/partner/husband. How the day worked was we went through different yoga asanas and set activities to open up each chakra and allow the energy to move through (obviously if energy is stuck they won’t necessarily just move, it’s can take time) but this was a way of looking at certain asanas and things we can do to start that process and engage in what it is like. We worked from our 1st chakra to our 7th chakra and went through a whole range of emotions dancing and grounding ourselves, flowing through sun salutations, playing on slack lines and silks, backbends, placing our hands on others hearts, sharing innermost secrets to mantras and chanting, the energy felt in the room was beautiful and it was a day I will never forget, it was a day that made me understand more about each chakra and its importance but also a day at where I looked into myself and saw were my energy could be stuck and the benefits of using chakras as a tool in looking at how people are impacted, but also using yoga as a tool for moving through this, the two marry together in such a complete way and I can’t wait to take this new information home and use it in my therapeutic work.
The course covered so many different areas of yoga practice that every day I was yearning for more, Bex took us through the history of yoga and took us back before Pantanjali and his Raja Yoga about 5000 years ago, we talked about what Yoga was and how mantra is the oldest form of yoga practice, Bex talked of the practices of the shamanistic and their out of body experiences, the ascetics who went out into nature and on their own having no attachments to basic living and the vedics who believed in fire rituals, mantras, dharmas and breath work. We moved through the years of pre classical yoga and how the Bhagavad Gita become such an important text, this then led us to the knowing of Pantanjali and the yoga most of us now know and love. This was all such information for me and my mind was so eager to take it all in, from this we started to move towards our yoga philosophy and Pantanjalis 8 limbs of yoga Yama, Niyama, Asana, Pranayama, Pratyahara, Dharana, Dhyana and Samadhi, for me seeing asana and pranayama as 3 and 4 was mind boggling as although I knew it, in our current world of yoga, we jump straight to the asanas before anything else and don’t even know about the other areas of yoga, this information and new knowledge just stood strong in my belief how yoga is more than just moving our bodies in certain ways and yoga can be found in many forms not just the poses.

From one amazing thought blowing information gaining subject to another we moved into yoga therapy and talked of the types of yoga that can be used as a therapeutic tool but also the benefits of yoga to an individual and ourselves, the list we came up with was endless and secured my knowledge again of why I was here learning this worthy and precious skill. We learnt about thai massage (and its origins) and the art of touch and Bex explained how we can bring this into our yoga sessions and the benefit this can have to students by having a ‘safe touch’ experience. The yoga therapy session resonated so much with me and I was already starting to know the type of yoga teacher I hope to be.

We were taught human anatomy by a leading French Ostepath, my mind was opened again to the biology of the body and the way we work, taking me back to school but with a deeper insight into the importance of learning and wanting to know the information to be able to put into practice when working with human bodies. I loved the way Francoise taught us, teaching us how Ostepaths look at the whole body, not just isolated areas, sharing her wealth of knowledge and experience allowed us to understand certain elements of the body in relation to yoga practice and how we can help others who may attend classes with aliments but also avoid aliments and understand them in our own practice. We discussed the importance of fascia again and how it’s a subject rarely covered but is as important as muscles, Francoise sharing how Myo Fascial release work being so important to the human body.

We took work home and learnt then presented information about different Hindu deityies like Saraswati, Ganesh, Shiva, Vishnu, Rama, Kali, Brahma, Sita and Hanuman and how they came to be the gods and goddess worshipped by many.  We took time to look at certain deities in relation to yoga and how certain asanas found their names in relation to the deity’s tales. It made me want to head back to India and make more of an understanding about the gods and goddesses worshipped there.

Our work led us to our yoga for the hands, mudras, linking these again to our chakras and how certain mudras can help release certain energies. We learnt the sacred chant of the Gayatri Mantra, one of the most oldest and powerful of Sanskrit mantras, the power of Om, the resonant sound of the universe.

We covered the different types of yoga in our modern day world and looked at the history of Yin yoga and due to it being new to the yoga world, only being founded by Paul Grilley in the 1990’s.

As the weeks passed by our teaching started to focus more on us as teachers and we learnt adjustments in certain asanas, attended real classes our teachers were teaching to assist and then started putting our adjustment practice into reality when adjusting people in classes giving them a deeper experience of the asana. We started to learn our own ways of sequencing and put these into practice by demonstrating in class with the eventual move to teaching in real class ourselves.

I was so scared to teach a real class and was so pleased I could teach a yin class as this being the area I wanted to teach back in the UK. I had put together a 30minute sequence for the class ending with shavasana, Denise took the start of the class and I took over with 30mins left, I counted 46 people in the studio and we were in the main studio upstairs, the whole experience was incredible, I was moved by the experience shared and by the energy felt in the room, it gave me the strength and sense of real security about how passionate I was about yin yoga. I looked over to my teacher, her smile overwhelmed me and gave the courage to carry on and even bring students out of shavasana, ending the class with a collected om.
My feedback was great, and I felt a great achievement that all my learning was going in and I was able to teach a class of 46 people and teach it well enough to be given praise.

We had a number of sessions in our learning group where we did 20min sequences and 1hr sequences and were given feedback in the form of Haiku’s (Japanese form of giving feedback). We looked at how we work with students in our classes and talked of double loop learning, using strengths to encourage our students and not put them off, it was all becoming so real and soon I was going to be leaving this training qualified to empower and share this art form with others.

With the course coming to an end and our learning shared with others both in a public and class forum I was feeling more confident with what I would be taking away and more confident in sharing the practice with others without feeling I have to be able to carry out every yoga asana to be a ‘good teacher’. My focus was now about what I could share and not what I can do, as Denise shared in one of her thoughts for the day ‘we can’t give away what we don’t have’, my confidence in my own ability was strengthening and my sense of self identity as a yogi was holding true to my own beliefs and values, my own niyamas.

The course came to an end with the beauty of a butterfly mandala, made out of an array of vibrant and stunning flowers and we discussed our writing assignments as a collected group, we shared our highs and lows and self discipline to carry on but overall our bond as a group and our collected sense of sharing as teachers.

I couldn’t have asked for a better training experience, I feel equipped to teach, I feel ready to learn more, as like life, yoga is a forever learning experience.

The vast knowledge of two empowering teachers has allowed me to develop and grow into the yoga teacher I have always dreamed of becoming and I am forever thankful for that experience, my time in Ubud will never be forgotten and I will ensure my practice gained will be shared worldwide.

Wahe Guru

(A few favourite snaps)







Friday, 4 July 2014

Indonesia

So I normally leave my blog posting until after I have left the country I am blogging about, however with leaving Indonesia straight after my yoga course finishes, and deciding I would write a separate blog for my teacher training I decided it would be nice to get a few things down of our visits so far into the depths of Indonesia. 

Our Indonesian part of the trip didn’t go as planned, which I guess is part of the beauty of travelling in terms of route change, everything happens for a reason and I totally believe this with our next few weeks we had planned. When we left Derawan (Indonesian Borneo) we had planned to dive into the thick of Indonesia, exploring the rainforest of Kalimantan and driving hours overland to glimpse that unknown village and beautiful primate, what we hadn’t realised was the lack of transport due to bad roads and therefore the distance overland journeys would take. We sat down and realistically looked at how much time we wanted to spend in this part of Indonesia, realizing we only had a week planned for this part of the journey we realistically didn’t believe we had the time and didn’t think it would be worthwhile stressing ourselves with the journeys for a few days here and there, for me that wouldn’t be an experience and would just be a headache, so with that in mind we headed to the nearest airport and jumped on a plane to Java and prepared ourselves for a journey to Bromo Volcano. 

We flew into Surabaya and chose to stay there for one evening, arriving at night left us slightly disorientated but I felt a real city feeling when driving through the bright lights and fast pace of the hustle and bustle. We only had one night planned so after a long days travel from Derawan we settled for a sound sleep, excited to be heading to Bromo earlier than planned.  We woke early the next morning and knew it would take around a day to get across to East Java where Bromo is situated, we had done quite a lot of research around Bromo as wanted to climb without a guide, the internet is amazing for its wealth of personal information and we found one women’s blog which was just an incredible guide for the climb. After a few buses from Surabaya we arrived at Problingo and shared a taxi with another English couple and Swiss couple, the journey was a short one too Cemoro Lawang, which is the small village next to Bromo, where you stay before the climb. 
It was early evening so we decided to climb to the crater rim, it was such an incredible sight, I was really taken aback, this being my first experience of being so close to a volcano, the vast beauty and landscape surrounding were just dazzling to the eye and the dusk time walk just felt the perfect way to head to Mt Bromo. We took the path down the hill from Cemoro Lawang, missing out walking through the main Bromo office, we started our walk across the volcanic sands, it was incredible in the middle of the sands was the most beautiful Hindu Temple, sat lonesome but with such stature and magnificence, it was a treat to witness but also wonder who visited as it felt far from any main town or village. After about an hrs walk we arrived at the steps to make our ascent up to the crater rim and with determination, I managed to make it to the top, huffing and puffing. It was amazing up there, with the smoke billowing out and the sun setting, it felt a really beautiful time to see the crater and experience this natural wonder, we took some time out up the top and watched the sun come down over the sands and turn the sky beautiful colours of orange.  As night started to approach we realised we had a long walk back and only a small torch, we managed to get about half way across the sands before it turned pitch black, with a little bit of confusion we managed to join the back of some other trekkers and followed their lead back to Cemoro Lawang. After eating another plate of Mie Goreng we took to our beds, ready to wake at 2am to climb to the viewing point to watch sunrise over Bromo. 

We woke without problem and started the climb in the dark, we had mapped out our route and grouped with the others staying in our home stay, we decided to take the climb at our pace due to my knee, this worked fine for the first bit and after about an hour and a bit of walking we arrived at the first viewing point. We could see the option of higher viewing points but sadly the path had become over run and wasn’t as clear as we hoped, after about 30mins of rustling around and taking a number of dead ends we managed to find the trail again and we then really started to climb, as you can imagine at 4am this wasn’t the easiest thing and with a number of trips, skips and a huge face plant I finally broke, the tears came and my knee felt like it was about to explode. At this point I will admit I did feel like giving up and telling Sam to go on, but after 5mins of sorting my thinking out and believing in myself I managed to hobble on, making it to the viewing point just as sun was rising. When we arrived here I suddenly realised why I had needed to carry on, the view was astounding and like something I have never seen before, it really was truly beautiful and Mt Bromo just looked spectacular, the dreamy mist that surrounded the volcano, the smoke circling out, the clouds in front of us, it was a dream like scene and I felt proud of my own ability but it felt magical to be sharing it with such a wonderful group of people. We sat snuggled, eating our morning treats and silenced ourselves at the views spanning out in front of us. After sun rose we took the time to wander around, drink some coffee with some locals and then attempt the descent back down, amazed at how we had just climbed it in the dark. 

We snoozed the rest of the morning away then the 6 of us took the taxi back down to Probilingo, going our separate ways, not without some great hugs, facebook befriending and well wishes for the end of our travels. We decided to make the long journey across to Bali, we were going to head to Ijen but with my knee in a bad way we decided to take on the trek on the way back (however this has now changed again and Sam will be doing this whilst I am training). Without going into it we had a bit of a nightmare journey, Indonesia seems to be good for this and had to stay in a random hotel in a random town for the night, starting again the next morning and marvelously making it to Bali and our very nice accommodation in Ubud. 

We had decided to take some time out in Ubud and stay for 5/7 days to really recuperate and get back to us after all the disjointed travel, unwanted stress and smelly hotel rooms. I had always wanted to visit Ubud as heard a lot of good things about it, Sam wasn’t too fussed but decided it would be nice to just relax for a bit instead of being on the move. Ubud really did live up to its vision I had, although touristy it has such a beautiful feeling about it and with Bali meaning offering you could feel the sense of community in the air. Our accommodation was back from the main street which was amazing for us as gave us the feeling of not being in the main tourist hub and also allowed us to feel it was okay just to do nothing for a few days. Before coming to Ubud I had looked into the Yogabarn which is highly recommended for its variations of classes it holds, I picked out  YIN Yoga class and took to the 1.5hr session ready and willing for some rejuvenation, the class was incredible and really got me going, the teaching was so great and I just knew at that moment I had to engage in this further, after speaking with the class teacher, Denise she informed me she was running a teacher training course on the 18th June, at that instant I knew I had to book a place on the course and before I knew it I was signed up to start the month long training, with this decided Sam and I chose to head to an Island off Bali for a week before the course started.
(I am going to blog about my course when finished so will leave the details above at that).

We headed off to Nusa Lembongan and it really felt a holiday from a holiday, ridiculous right, we took a small bag, leaving our main ones at our accommodation in Ubud and took the boat across to Nusa. Nusa is a small island off the Southeast coast of Bali and is a really popular surfing and diving spot, it has different parts to the island for different activities but is really beautiful place to just relax. We managed to find a beautiful quiet nook of one the beaches away from the surfing zone, we spent most days enjoying our time reading and swimming, and just getting back into our bodies preparing me for the hard work ahead over the next month. 

We also took one day out to snorkel, but as we called it extreme snorkeling as the sea was so choppy and at points I couldn’t even enter the water as the current was so strong, I did however enjoy a few moments and dared the water at times. Sam had a great day however and really got in there, enjoying all five different spots we snorkeled at. 

With our week coming to an end we spent our last night with new friends celebrating their engagement and enjoying the sounds of the open mic night. We fell asleep that night ready to head back to Ubud in the morning fully satisfied with our week away on Nusa Island.

My course started that week and I was a bag of nerves and excitement at the prospect of committing myself to a month’s training, I went and purchased myself a notebook and prepared myself like the first day of school, knowing we would be in Ubud 1 month we did some shopping and fell into Ubud life pretty quickly, Sam finding his local haunt to watch the world cup and me working out the best shortcut to get to class each day. I have blogged separately about my training so won’t start writing a full blog here but will include my time in Ubud as we joined in a number of things outside of the course and both become firm friends with two heartwarming Canadians, Ash and Mike, eating many a weekly meal with them and enjoying their company greatly. 

Ubud is an interesting place, I througherly enjoyed every minute there and miss it so much, it has definitely been a highlight of my trip and maybe that’s because we become nested there it felt like home from home (with a lot more sun). There is talk of an ‘Ubud community’ and being at the yoga barn you totally see and feel this as you become part of the everyday rituals and routines for some. There is a lot of expacts living in Bali and even attending a few nights about love and togetherness you could feel people had found something important to them and a sense of belonging in a spiritual community. For me I could go with this, I could understand it and sit back and enjoy watching it, for Sam at times I think he found it a bit much, obviously being Sam and unspiritual as they come, however what was beautiful to see was even Sam letting go, sharing things he would never share at chakra day and even letting go of a lantern with a meaningful message on instead of asking for Fulham to win the league (or something football related). 


I have went through my thoughts on the yogabarn constantly, how it is a ‘yoga business’ how it doesn’t bring in the type of communities I wish to work with now qualified, how it is a money making enterprise but something draws me back to the love of it and how it is a community, when writing an email to a friend the other day I explained it as a community of yoga, it’s a place where there are so many different types of people attending but one thing is that there all there for yoga and isn’t that in itself just beautiful? 


Ubud has so many great eateries, cafes, and local restaurants, organic supermarkets and everything you could need for being based there for a month, we ate the most sumptuous food every night and even relaxed in some nights, using the kitchen at our guesthouse and catching up on some tv series or other. We also spent our 2nd year anniversary in Ubud and went to an amazing resturant called Kebun, it was recommended by my yoga teacher and we ate like royalty, with the gift from our families we had a nice amount of money to spend and ordered the most delicious lamb shanks (for Sam) and salmon for me, a carafe of the most tasty red wine turned up (a present from my yoga teacher, amazing right?) and we even had millie feuille
slices, it was such a nice evening and even though the rain poured we couldnt have been anywhere more special at that time. Sam even bought me some flowers, now that's saying something!

Sam took a couple of days away with Mike, (my friend Ashley’s husband) and they went and climbed Kawah Ijen, on his return he stated it was one of the best experiences he has had travelling as talking with the sulpher miners and being in a working volcano was just a mind blowing experience. 


For both of us though one of our main highlights was spending 1hr 30mins sweating and dancing at ecstatic dance, there’s one rule, no talking just dancing, it’s a place to totally let yourself go and do what your body tells you, the upstairs room at the yogabarn is full to the brim of smiling sweaty humans just having the most beautiful uplifting time, we both agreed we have never felt so free and so at one just letting ourselves and our bodies just go where the music wanted, we dance so much at festivals, gigs and clubs but in this space at Sunday at 11am there really was no one else watching allowing our souls to be in the time and space and be whoever we wanted to be. 


We left Ubud with our hearts contented, Ubud and Ijen will forever be special to us both, were so thankful of our time there  and we both had the most wonderful life changing experiences there, I have never felt so lucky to be having this experience and opportunity to travel as we are, blessed.
 



Thursday, 5 June 2014

Beautiful Borneo

Our flight from India to Borneo didn’t go as smoothly as we had hoped and with a few delays and three flights later we arrived in Kuching (Malaysian part of Borneo), what a shock to the system it was, coming from Delhi I still imagined Kuching would be filled with the chaos of an Asian city, how wrong I was though, it was clean and felt rather wealthy, this I had not expected. It was nice to have an air of ease and calmness when we arrived, we weren’t haggled into a taxi or informed of a better hotel, we were just took straight to our hostel, money paid, sorted. 

We were staying on the waterfront at a really nice hostel; it felt strange arriving somewhere and the room being clean and feeling comfortable to just lie down and snooze off the long travel. We were using Kuching as our base to head to a few attractions; however we enjoyed our first evening wandering the riverside and indulging on the top of a car park at the local seafood market, topspot. After manically working our way through the Malaysian menu we ordered some juicy prawns, vegetables and rice and yum, what a tasty feast it was. The next day we used it to explore Kuching and amble around the streets, tasty the yummy food on offer and seeing how the people of Kuching live. What we found was the opposite to our time in India and instead of workworkwork, open all hours that everywhere in Kuching closed from 2pm and didn’t open again until 6pm, meaning after our beasty line in our wandering didn’t get us tasty any food until later that day, we were so confused at the reasons for all the closures that until we spoke to someone we were informed of the ways of Kuching, it felt a pretty perfect city to have arrived in and a nice ease into Malaysian lifestyle. That night we decided to head to another food market Sam had found out about and enjoyed another tasty meal of prawns but ordered a local dish of midi (scrumptious greens), the meal was washed down with some local beer and two very satisfied smiles. 

We were planning on waiting to head to Semengoh nature reserve but chose to use the Monday to head off and gaze at some Orangutans, now those of you that know me know I am not great at zoos and have that whole debate in my head about the positives and negatives of wildlife conservation centre’s etc. Semengoh started this debate also but we had planned to go so stuck with our plan, Semengoh is called a semi wild nature reserve and is for Orangutans who have been handed in as they were kept as pets, injured or saved from captivity, there are also younger ones who have been born there. So I understood this and think yes this is good, it’s like Monkey World in Dorset (if you don’t know about this place check it out, watch a programme called monkey business (its based on monkey world)  and then get yourself there, it has the same principles as Semengoh and is a great place for monkey conservation, the owners Jim and Alison are also amazing, sadly Jim died a number of years ago but the work they have achieved together is huge in the primate world and I was amazed when I last went in 2006ish). Semengoh is open for tourists and charges a small amount entrance fee, once in they operate two feeding times, 9am and 3pm, tourists are then allowed to observe the Orangutans feeding at each time (during tourists can’t stay in the park and the Orangutans go back into the rainforest). My problem was feeding platforms, tourism, eek but actually when there I had two very different experiences in one day. Firstly the first feed is the main one tourists come too, large groups and a lot of ipads (grrr) people pushing, shoving wanting that perfect photo, it made me slightly mad that people were watching these beautiful ginger creatures through there lenses rather than their eyes, anyway crowds started to disperse after about 45mins and Sam and I stayed behind and observed how they behaved with less people, it was amazing watching their tomfoolery and playful behavior and experiences what felt like them being natural and not ‘playing to a tourist crowd’. We also took this time to read more at the park info board about how many Orangutans they had and the feeding operation, what changed my view to a more positive one was the fact that they have around 27 Orangutans living in the rainforest surrounding the nature reserve office, now when we were there we saw around 6 come out to eat, which then made me look into the other 21 more, on the info board the office had a list of each Orangutan and how often they come to feed and what I enjoyed seeing was over half never actually come back to the feeding platforms and have chose to live wild in the rainforest, the ones who do come back tend to be the oldest lady there and a few younger ones. Why did this change my mind, well it made me feel happy that yes some do come back and they obviously like that human interaction but actually a number have chose to carry on being wild as they rightly should be and fend for themselves, surviving in the Borneo rainforest they call home.

We headed back for the afternoon feed and experienced a completely different feeling from the mornings experience, less people and the ‘main man, big Richie’ came out, wow, what a beautiful primate, his structure, the way he walked and his enormous cheeks showed he was the boss. When speaking with a women she informed us a journalist had bought him and brought him to Semengoh as was disgraced he was being sold on the street/shop, to think that an animal of this structure could be sold to a silly human just astounds me and this made me feel happy that he was somewhere that was a safe home for him and somewhere he was able to be the Orangutan he should be.

My 31st birthday also arrived whilst in Borneo, I had wanted to be in Borneo for my birthday as wanted to do some trekking and see monkeys, Bako was my chosen National Park and we had booked two nights in the hostel and had 3 full days there, we woke the morning of my birthday early and Sam had found an amazing proboscis monkey postcard and wrote some special words, he also gave me a book called The Glass Palace, which had been recommend by a book keeper in India, it’s a fiction book about Burma, I was super chuffed as was reading another book by the same author and liked the style of writing.

With an early morning start we found the bus to take us and started our journey to the rainforest. Once off the bus you get a speedboat across to Bako, it’s a quick 20min journey across, it felt so free and exciting to be headed somewhere new and into a national park renowned for its beauty. We were already aware of the treks we wanted to do so checking in was easy. One of the main top stars of Bako is that you can trek with and without a guide, obviously not wanting to the cookie cutter way of travel we independently did our treks, however Bako do make it easier as the trails are marked out and although the terrain can be rough the guideline is marked on trees etc. We were also very excited to see some proboscis monkeys which are a species of primate only found in Borneo, there very distinctive as the males have large noses that move when they make a trumpet like noise. Whilst walking to our hostel cabin we heard a rustle in the trees and were so lucky to be greeted by 3 proboscises, it was like they were coming out to give a birthday welcome, with this being our first sighting we were raring to go and full of excited beans. 

We had decided with getting there at midday to do a shorter trek that would end on a beach, we chose the Kecil trail which took around 1.5hrs each way, the trek was great and although the weather peaked and we sweated it was great being in the rainforest, we also spotted a few more proboscis and macaques and a huge lizard (3-4m long), we also went through other vegetation but for me the rainforest was just incredible and the sounds were immense. The trail came to a view point where you see the sea stack which is an amazing land formation where the sea has eroded the rock and sculpted a serpent like figure, from the beach below the stack is hard to see but we had great view up on the viewing point. We then took the hike down to the beach and were amazed to find we had it to ourselves, obviously this called for Sam to demand a skinny dip so we stripped down and went for a swim, the sun was beating down nicely and the water was welcomed after such a sweaty walk. We spent the rest of the afternoon relaxing and reading and enjoying our secluded ‘private’ beach.
We headed back to the park entrance for evening so we could shower, eat some cake and head out on a night trek. 

The night trek was fun, very basic but a great way to see Bako by night, we mainly saw sleeping birds and a number of insects but the main attraction for me was the sounds of the rainforest by evening and indulge on the unknown of the animals around us, we were told by the rangers owls and slow loris would be around but sadly none were seen. 

The next day we headed to a longer trek to Tajor Waterfall, this trek was a lot more strenuous and took us through a number of different twists and turns, part of Bako’s beauty is the feeling of being out in the rainforest alone and able to wander so freely, we didn’t get lost but at times the trail was sparse on its direction and it felt nice nature had taken its control back and crept back across the walkways allowing the rainforest to live as it choose. We made it to Tajor and I can honestly say I have never sweated so much but had such a brilliant challenging trek, we did head further than the waterfall but turned back after a steep dangerous climb, we decided the beauty of the waterfall would fill us for today. We took our boots off, snacked on some treats and started dozing, two hours later we woke, the sound of the water, the rustle of the trees and the insect life around us was bewitching to hear and I felt so relaxed in natures arms. We headed back soon after 3ish, arriving back at the hostel that evening, Sam had decided to go look for some proboscis monkeys and what a treat we were given, after sitting watching a few monkeys swinging bashfully from the trees and trumpeting away we were suddenly greeted by around 20 monkeys, we had only joined them at evening feed time, the surge of happiness I felt right from my toes to my smile was beholding and I couldn’t believe what  we were witnessing, they were encircled around us and were just chilling out, eating away and making some of the most incredible noises. We sat for ages in awe of these brilliant monkeys, if our time at Bako had ended there I would have felt we had got everything we had wanted from the experience, but luckily for us we still had another day. 

The following day was a shorter one as we had the 2pm boat booked to take us back to the mainland, we chose to take a shorter trail and headed for a more popular trek, meaning we did see more people along the way, however we did have a up close encounter with a number of macaques who are fearless to humans and pretty much barricaded the path we needed to take, after a few steps closer they took their cue to leave and we headed on through the dense rainforest, ending out on another beautiful beach. We watched some amusing fish for some time and paddled in the pristine blue waters before having to make our ascent back to head office to say goodbye to a wondrous park. We couldn’t have asked for more from our time here and it’s definitely a place I will head back too, there is so much to do and see and even without the trails the park holds such beauty. 

Our next stop was Gunung Mulu National Park; we had a small stop off in Miri for the night and flew the next morning on a twin otter plane to Mulu. Mulu is situated in the middle of Borneo Malaysia and can only be accessed by plane due to the roads being so bad. We planned 3 days 2 nights there, most people stay for longer as once you ticket is purchased its valid for 5 days. Gunung Mulu is a UNESCO site and as soon as we arrived you could see and feel why, sadly it’s also owned privately as well as by the Government which for me took a tiny bit of the magic away. Taking that side away though you could really sense an awe of professionalism that was different from Bako, unlike Bako you are not able to do a lot of the treks without a guide as the trails require you to go into different caves and certain areas of the park that can be dangerous, now due to the fact that you need a guide you of course have to pay, the cost isn’t that much (and we had budgeted for it) we managed to pick four different treks that were not too strenuous, the pinnacles is a really tough famous walk at Mulu which takes around 3 days, the end is so steep and I knew I wouldn’t be able to do it, Sam wasn’t up for doing it alone so we made our decisions and paid up, we then headed to the hostel to set up our beds for the next few nights. 

We had a night walk planned for that night so had the rest of the afternoon to soak in the parks beauty, we decided to take one of the free trails to Paku Waterfall and go for a dip as we were told we could swim there, the walk was really beautiful and felt different to Bako as we hiked through the rainforest, there was no sound of honking monkeys but the insect life was incredible and we stood at points just amazed by the sounds that were coming from such small creatures. When we got to the waterfall, we dipped in and had an hour of reading listening to the water run freely, sadly though the heavens opened and the rains came. We chose to take a different route back to the hostel though and took another free trail that was around 3km, through the rainforest we trudged, enjoying the coolness of the rain as we sweated and beat our way through the dense undergrowth. Sadly the evening night trek was cancelled due to the rains but we did however enjoy the company of two Canadians who were so well travelled listening to their stories was incredible, in the 80’s they were working as school teachers and took a group of school leavers away travelling around Europe for 2/3 months as part of their job, imagine if schools could do that now and imagine how amazing that experience would be. 

The next day we set out on two cave treks, the first was interesting but didn’t ball me over, it reminded me of similar caves I had seen already and although it was fun to see them I didn’t get the wow factor I had hoped for. However driving up to the caves in long boats was pretty fun and was great to see the park from a different point.

That afternoon the rains started again and we took another trip to Lang and Deer cave, the walk was nice and there were only 5 of us (including Sam and I) in the group which was great as it was really personal and meant we could talk with our guide along the way. Deer cave turned out to be so amazing, and I am still shocked at how excited I was to be there. Deer cave is home to around 3 to 4 million bats, so as we ventured through the cave it was a bit stinky but seeing the groups of bats, was pretty immense and rather unlike any other experience. Deer Cave has the longest walk way in the world so it’s a good hour walk through the cave, our guide did the classic of showing of rocks that looked like men’s bits and laughed at his own jokes along the way, he was harmless though and got us laughing at how excited he was at a joke he must use every day. The cave itself leads into numerous nooks and crooks of the cave and really did take you to so many new places and sights as you walked through. There was two ‘showers’ as the guide called them which were basically were water sprayed from certain shower head rocks, it was so strange, the water was coming from nowhere else but these two round head like stones, I was just amazed at the incredibleness of nature and how things form.   We also saw part of the Garden of Eden walk which if we had had more time we may have done, the walk was a two day walk though and we sadly didn’t have time. The walk takes you through certain parts of the cave that are adventuring caving and it just looks really fun and a real trip to see areas of the cave closed off to over visitors. The most amazing part of Deer cave was afterwards though when we sat waiting for the bats to leave, I didn’t know what to expect and soon felt downhearted as our guide stated the bats didn’t seem to be coming out, they normally leave around 5pm-6pm, it was now approaching 6.15pm, as we started to pack to leave another guide shouted it was starting, that the bats were leaving, at this point I seen a few bats fly off but then suddenly the most amazing black lines appeared from the cave and 100’s of bats came twirling out, it was spectacular and the noises of excitement I was making showed how utterly amazed I was at what was in front of me. It last about 30mins and it felt like a scene from David Attenborough, it was truly incredible, watching all 4 million leave for feeding, the swirls they made and the amount that took flight blew me away and I doubt any experience will amaze me like that (well unless I see a Narwhal), I couldn’t believe bats were exciting me more than monkeys, ha! I fell asleep that night very happy and fulfilled with our time here and can honestly say it was one of the highlights of the trip so far. 

The next day was our last in Mulu and we planned to head to the Canopy Walk, to walk in the trees. The canopy was loads of fun and although we did it with others it felt we were on our own a lot of the time as only two people could be on the canopy at any one time. The canopy is the longest walkway in the world and at times reaches 30m high, it was beautiful experiencing the park from another viewpoint and feeling like monkeys in the trees, we walked so far through the park and enjoyed being over the lake, right in the trees and seeing some interesting insects. It was a perfect way to end the day and we had a real giggle at the rockiness of the walk ways and swinging of the bridges. 

Our flight took us to Kota Kinabalu next where we had booked a lovely private room in a hostel, we had loads to do in KK so decided to use the time to restock on goodies, get our Indonesian visa, wash our clothes and see the city. It worked perfect for us as because we had so much to do we managed to walk all over really soaking in different parts of city life. KK had a different feel to Kuching and although it still felt quite wealthy it did feel a bit rougher city like, with everyone going about their ways, people selling stuff and open cafes selling street food. We gorged at the Filipino BBQ market both nights and enjoyed the bustle of the fish market afterwards, watching everyone go crazy for fish at 9pm. I would definitely recommend it as a stop off but unless you’re visiting the nearby islands you don’t need more than a day here to see the sights.

We took a night bus that night to Tawau and started our long descent to Derawan Island (aka Paradise), Indonesia Borneo, I am not going to go into the hell that was the journey as you will want to come and collect us and bring us home but basically it was tough, tiresome and a real challenge, after three days travel though we made it to Derawan Island…. Only to find out it was an Indonesian holiday and there was no accommodation on the island, paradise was feeling further and further away.  After hours of checking every losman, cabana, home stay and hotel (twice) we finally got a skanky room and paid a stupid price to rest our heads and try not to cry. After a good night’s sleep I woke the next morning and headed out early, with a few Indonesian words in tow, somehow we managed to get a room in the losman we wanted and to make it all the better it was a great room, balcony, en suite and was the perfect price, things were starting to look up. 

Derawan was a great stay but as I try to be as honest as I can I will admit was probably not worth the time and money we paid to get there as sadly I felt it was quite built up and had lost that paradise feel that I had read, researched and imagined. However it wasn’t all bad and we stayed for 6 days, we managed to find a stretch of beach that was idyllic and untouched, no tourists came around here so we enjoyed a couple of days snorkeling and relaxing here and most evenings we snorkeled round by our losman with 3 incredible giant turtles. Derawan is known for its sea turtles and the first time we both saw one we were thrown back with their size and stature. Each night it was great to get right into the water and amble near them, just taking it all in as they ate the grass at the bottom of the sea and aimlessly swam along. We also took a day trip with 3 lovely ladies (one being a Geordie girl) and snorkeled at some great spots and went to a lake and swam with loads of jellyfish, the jellyfish have been there for thousands of years and due to their being no predators they have lost their sting over time, meaning you can jump right in and swim with them. At first I was happy to sit on the side but after some gentle persuasion I jumped in and really enjoyed it, it was like a scene out of finding nemo at one point, they were all over me and felt like chicken fillets to touch but I didn’t feel scared which was the biggest shock and actually enjoyed the experience. 

I was really pleased we had gone to Derawan but sadly there was more being built as it’s a tourist hot spot for Indonesians, it did make me sad paradise wasn’t as I had hoped but the experiences we had there were great and some stuff I will never get to do again, so even with the changes and travel nightmare it was a great week and becoming stronger at snorkeling was a definite plus. 

Our Borneo trip was meant to have another week of adventure but due to price rises at Tajung Putting national park we changed our plans and decided to move on, with only a small amount of time left for Borneo we chose to head to Java and use the time more efficiently there than spending hours and hours in ‘private taxis’ (basically smoky hell holes), with our decision made we booked a flight and headed out of Berau to Surabaya, next stop Bromo Volcano. 

Link for those not on facebook:
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Saturday, 17 May 2014

North India – into the Himalayas

We moved on from Jaisalmer to Amritsar, somewhere Sam was dying to get too, a place I was hit and miss about. Amritsar is where the Golden Temple is which is a the holiest Sikh pilgrimage site, now I think this was my first problem, I do enjoy seeing temples/places of worship but there is something in me that also feels rather uncomfortable about me visiting, like I don’t believe places like this should be used as a tourist attraction, if that makes sense? I can see why they are and for others it maybe amazing to see a place that means so much to another but there is an air of unease within myself when I am there, it’s like I have entered someone’s house uninvited. However even with all these thoughts it was spectacular to see and did hold a real sense of pure beauty about it, its grand statue was incredible and the place was buzzing with prayer and believers that it did hold a fame of magic around it, with my thinking shifting I could see why this was a place of awe and beauty and I felt rather privileged to have visited somewhere others are dying to see.

That evening we did the standard border parade, which it seemed everyone there was going to do, in my mind I had that it would be a normal border with a few guards and a military style patrol, oh how wrong I was, it was a spectacle even Walt Disney would have been proud of, the ‘wind the crowd up guy’, the theatrical uniforms, the music and dancing, the stalls which everyone was ushered too, the whole thing was a performance that could have been performed at a theme park. The border parade happens every evening when India and Pakistan close the border to each other for the night, somehow this day to day occurrence has become a show in to itself and for two countries that are enemy’s the whole thing felt quite jovial. Sam had this on one of his top things to do so I was pleased we had been able to enjoy it and it had lived up to more than it could have expected, all in all our day in Amritsar was jam packed but full of beauty and hilarity.


The next morning we left early for our bus to McLeod Ganj (Dharamshala), sadly we had to do a bit of a journey as we couldn’t get a direct bus and had to stop off and then get onto a night bus, so with a full day of travel we arrived into the mountains and our breaths were taken away with the beauty in front of us, snow capped mountains, tasty Tibetan street food snug woolen wear, after all that heat we were ready to get wrapped up and enjoy ambling the mountain streets. We had planned 7 days in McLeod but ended staying 10 due to an unexpected meeting with the Dalai Lama, we had chosen a beautiful guesthouse that offered the most spectacular views, we had a top star balcony that overlooked the Kangra Valley and a bed that eventually looked comfy, for £7.70 (a night) we couldn’t complain. Our first day when we arrived it rained down and we bought some new yak woolen scarf’s and nestled into our jackets, we found a café that served cake and tea and I enjoyed an earl grey and delicious slice of chocolate cake, with the rain beating down It really did feel home from home, and you know what, I liked it.
We enjoyed a beautiful thunder storm that night that kept us at our window and eyes ablaze as the whole sky lit up then boomed down upon our heads, it felt magic being in the mountains, the weather felt so fierce and loud and the sky was just amazing to watch, we eventually drifted into our beds in the early hours and woke the next day to bright skies and a spring in our step for exploration.


McLeod is around 1850m above sea level, it’s classed as part of the Himalayan range and although is part of India its population is mainly Tibetan as its where the Tibetans took refuge when China invaded, then occupied Tibet (1950’s), the Dalai Lama escaped the Chinese occupation in 1959 and fled to McLeod taking with him a number of Tibetans, although they are classed as refugees the Indian government welcome the Tibetans and have offered them a place where they can still be who they are and not reform to what the Chinese government wants.


It was refreshing to have new foods to eat, new religion to understand and new conversations to have, we knew with our time there we wanted to do a couple of treks, visit the Buddhist temple complex, hear a talk in the museum and enjoy Bhagsu Falls, we managed all this and more, although some days were spent wandering, eating and indulging in the views around us.


Our main trek we did was Triund Hill, we climbed from 1850m – 2900m, we were able to do the trek alone which was amazing, as with my knees I knew my pace would be slow and it allowed me to plod, my favorite way of trekking. The trek took us from McLeod – Dharamakot, where we had a delicious breakfast getting us ready for the trek ahead, as we set off all pumped and ready we were amazed at the beautiful prayer flags in front of us and the ease of the wind around the hills, after 30minutes we asked someone the way and they informed us ‘you’re going the wrong way’ grumble, we took ourselves back and realized we had just walked straight past the uphill climb to start the trek, oops, we took a positive from it though and were pleased we had seen the amazing prayer flags and seen a part of Dharamakot we would have missed if we had gone straight onto Triund. We then started the ascent and the sweat started, basically from the start to end it was an incline, there was no letting go, 4hrs of uphill climb, we stopped at beautiful tea shops on a couple of occasions and enjoyed looking at how far we had climbed (not looking at how far we had to go), the sites around were of true beauty and looking at all the little villages nestled into the mountains felt incredibly serene, I couldn’t believe how high we were up and how proud I was to be challenging myself to such a arduous climb. I can’t deny I went all the way without a moan and there was a point where I stated to Sam ‘no more, I can’t do it’ but with his cheerful smile, sweaty kiss,  good words and hand in hand he encouraged me on and I couldn’t thank him more when we reached the top I welled with tears, it was beauty beyond thinking, the snow capped mountains lay directly in my vision, we sat for some time just taking in the mountain air and being chuffed at our achievement, we drank chai, chatted with others and took the mandatory pictures before making the decent downhill. That night we both slept with smiles on our faces, it felt special achieving something so large and knowing I didn’t give up but carried on right to the end, and what an end it was.


We used the next few days to relax, recover and read planning what other delights McLeod had in store for us, on one of our bumbles down to the Buddhist temple complex we spotted a poster stating the Dalai Lama was holding a receiving ceremony that Saturday in McLeod, we couldn’t believe our luck, Sam had stated he hoped to meet him but I had laughed at the remark never believing an opportunity like this would or could arise. The poster informed us to take our passports and register the Dalai Lama office, then turn up on Saturday, we couldn’t believe it could be so easy but it was, once we registered we were told to be in line for 7am and the line would go as planned. Our next day was a bit of a haze, filled with excitement we rang our parents and informed them what would be happening, much to my mother’s disbelief (and ours really), it just didn’t feel real, we speculated about what it would be like and how the day would go, if he would speak to us, shake our hand or just bless us, it all just felt an excited dream.
On the Friday we went to the Tibetan Museum and went to a talk on the missing Panchem Lama, it was really interesting and due to it being the Panchem Lama birthday there was a lot of awareness talks and information sharing occurring in the museum. The Panchem Lama is like the son of the Dalai Lama and China have stolen him and replaced him with their own Panchem Lama, due to China wanting Tibetans to stop believing in the Dalai Lama and pushing their own beliefs onto the Tibetan population. The afternoon was so informative and afterwards we had chai and biscuits with a few of the speakers and others listening, we got talking to one women who moved to McLeod from American some 14yrs ago and one conversation led to another and we started talking about the meeting with the Dalai Lama, she informed us he hadn’t done something like he was tomorrow for around 20yrs, so we were very lucky, she told us we had good karma and her warming smile and interesting talks just got us more prepped for the big day.


Saturday came around and we joined the long line of people arriving to meet his high holiness, the queue was hyped with excitement and you could see the smiling faces of a long line of tourists and locals, the line moved quite quickly and we soon found ourselves in the main hall, there was around 2-3k people, a lot more then I imagined they thought they would have sign up and my guess was the receiving line wasn’t to happen as expected. After some time we were informed that they only expected around 500 but 2500 had signed up therefore meaning the proceedings had changed and instead of a receiving line, group photos would be taken then a talk. We were grouped into different countries, ours being a brilliant mix of different countries (as organization went a bit hay wire), when he came out from his home it was magical, the swarms of people left there photo group to get a glimpse but I decided to wait until he came over our side so instead of a stolen glace I could see him in his whole. After around 15 minutes, he came tottering over, smiling, happy and full of jubilation, he had around 5 body guards and stumbled into the middle of our group, reaching for hands and sharing smiles, my body filled with warmth I haven’t felt before when meeting someone and it was just this heightened sense of overwhelmed happiness. I looked at Sam and his eyes had welled, there was such a strong sense of spirituality in the room and people were awe struck at how laid back the whole event was and how the Dalai Lama just took it all in his stride. Our photos were taken in such a quick shot and it was time for him to move on, but wow, that feeling, that magic of him standing right in front of me will never leave me and it days like this that reminded me the importance of travel, new experiences and looking into the hearts of others.


The talk after was about the importance of making peace through our actions and not through prayer, I think this is an element a I love Buddhism so much as that even though its classed as a religion it is more of a teaching and I think the essence of learning rather than preaching is so important, something I feel this talk really opened my eyes and ears too. A lot of what was being said really rang home to my learning I have just completed back home around feminism and sharing the message and I think the power of sharing thoughts and feelings is so important as it spreads the word and allows it to be brought to the surface. The talk last around 30mins and was just inspirational, there were laughs, tears and just a lot of very happy listeners. When he finished and left he walked straight past Sam and I, it felt a welcome goodbye and I couldn’t have been more thankful for the experience had.


In all of India I have never felt as welcome as what I did when in McLeod, the smiles on people’s faces, the daily hellos from locals, knitting with the women on the street and talking about wool, eating the most delicious street food (momos), dining on pumpkin pie and caramel lattes in my favorite café, eating at the same restaurant four nights in a row, the whole place just made me feel so comfortable and Sam and I both agreed it would be a place we were sad to leave but would definitely come back too many times again. 


We left the following day and heading on an early morning bus to Manali, Manali was totally different to McLeod and although we enjoyed it didn’t feel near as beautiful or community based and it did feel more like we had arrived at a skiing/activity town rather than a place people lived. The beautiful snow capped mountains had buildings upon buildings on top of each other and it felt more like a construction site with all the work being carried out. Besides all this though we did get on one amazing trek to Solong Valley and although the end result was as amazing as Triund, the walk there was really special and was a brilliant trek to undertake. We chose to take the route through the forest rather than the road and enjoyed trekking through a number of apple orchards, sadly the apples weren’t in bloom but the trees had started to flower and it was just amazing being so far up and all these incredible fruit trees around us. We came across a beautiful waterfall and used it to bathe our faces and cool down, we also managed to get stuck on the wrong side of the river, thinking we could take a short cut and sadly couldn’t, it was great to explore though and see the locals working away and watch the fast flowing currents. When we came to the end of our trek we found a nice grassy knowl and enjoyed the sun before catching the last bus home.
We enjoyed an amazing day down by the river the following day, the sun come out so we took advantage and went for a dip in the mountain water, and we found a sandy nook and spent the day, reading, relaxing and enjoying the scenery that surrounded us. Our second trek was sadly cancelled because of me falling ill, so a day of bed rest and sleep took over as Sam planned our last week in India.


We knew we had to be in Rishikesh for the Saturday as our long awaited reunion with Ben and Claire was to take place, we were filled with nerves and excitement at the prospect of seeing them both after a year and a half. It felt weird as even though we have spoke over the last few years when they were in Oz, it was just the sense of seeing them and maybe those nerves were just pure excitement. When we saw them it felt we were all overwhelmed with emotion and group hugged on the side of the road spreading the love and holding each other with sheer delight to be in each others company again.


The next four days were filled with a highlight of our trip so far, we spent pretty much every moment with each other, talking, listening, hearing of each others adventures and experiences over the last years and filling each other in on tales of home and plans for when back.


We used our time in Rishikesh well and felt it was a perfect setting (apart from the lack of alcohol for a glass of vino or a beer), we explored abandoned ashrams, swam in the clear blue ganges, losing hours of time in cafes, drinking numerous amounts of tea and coffee, swimming in waterfalls, eating tasty food and shared travelling tips and do's and dont's, Rishikesh held an awe of beauty and peacefulness about it and it was brilliant for wandering around aimlessly enjoying each other’s company and being in each other’s presence. We even managed a few sneaky drinks on the beach before being asked to go home by the police, oops. All in all we couldn’t have thought of a better way to spend our last few days and I felt our relationships hadn’t just strengthened but had grown also at this sense of newness about us all, we have all grown and changed and it felt great to still have that sameness when together, I always feel it’s the element of true friendship.


We said our goodbyes on our last night, knowing it wouldn’t be long before we saw each again but still feeling sad the last four days had passed like a flash, it started with a group hug and ended with one, our loves were said and it was time to head to Delhi for our last India stop.


We got an early bus the next morning and arrived in Delhi for the cricket, with no time to stop and think we dropped our bags off and headed straight to the cricket. I am not a big sports fan and cricket is certainly not one sport I love but Sam was dying to go as he had followed the IPL whilst being in India, it was a fun atmosphere and I actually found myself enjoying the four hours we spent there, sadly the Delhi dare devils lost but I so learnt cricket is not like football and you cheer for the runs not for your team. We headed back to the hotel that night and had news of some very exciting news back home, making me miss the homelands but being reminded of how important this adventure is now, the news left us falling asleep with happy hearts and big smiles knowing we were on our journey and what a journey it was.


We used our next day well and did our last bit of shopping, sent our last post and headed to the airport ready for the next 24hrs to Kuching, Borneo, Malaysia. With India at an end I felt relived but also sad; my body was ready for cleanliness and some sort of order, rather than the manic times of Indian ways. The first 3 months of the trip have been beautiful in every way and however challenging India didn’t throw as many curveballs as I expected, I left knowing it would be a place that will always be in my heart and will always be a place I travel back too, now there is just more places I will want to visit and those 3wk holidays will become a bit more crammed. 


Link for North India pictures:
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Monday, 28 April 2014

A North Indian Fairytale

We arrived in Udaipur at the beginning of April, after our last few relaxing months in South India; we prepared ourselves for the hustle and bustle of the Indian city and for the new found sights of Rajasthan. How pleasantly surprised we were when we arrived and found a different world to what we had prepared for and imagined, the city felt calm with an air of beauty around it. We arrived in the evening and came into the city with the sound of beautiful prayers and Indian music being played, I instantly felt I was in an Indian fairytale and could see why Rajasthan was described as the land of the kings and a place where maharajas once settled. We had planned two weeks for exploring Rajasthan, as mentioned in a previous post the weather was starting to bake during the day and between 12-5pm you really have to hide inside as its too hot to do anything, therefore we felt longer than two weeks maybe silly as we didn’t want to spend every afternoon inside when in beautiful India.  We worked out where we both wanted to explore, due to Rajasthan being new to both of us and what we wanted out of this part of the trip. Rajasthan is full of forts, deserts, palaces and lakes and we knew our next few weeks would be filled with wonder and beauty.
Udaipur was our first stop in royal Rajasthan, we arrived at our guesthouse and secured a beautiful room looking out onto lake Pichola, (giving its name by the flooding of Pichola Village to make the lake, when thinking of a village at the bottom of a lake it always feels a bit fairy tale esk, as to think of hidden homes and another world once lived before the lake was made). Lake Pichola is the main attraction in Udaipur, all the hotels are centered around it and everywhere has roof top restaurants with the most magnificent views, luckily our new abode being one of these. We enjoyed our first fine feast on top of our guesthouse and felt very satisfied, taking in the sounds and sights before us preparing us for our next few days in this magical city. We secured three days in Udaipur and spent them mainly wandering around the streets purchasing lovely miniature Rajasthan art, buying beautiful home wares and generally just talking with locals and learning more about how the city works, we made friends with a little boy who was crying one morning as he wanted a banana and not an orange, Sam kindly went and purchased a banana for him and from this he and his family waved and smiled every morning at us when heading into the cities walls. We found an amazing spot for watching sunset with the locals and although the ever persistent ‘dress up as a prince photo’ was demanded we managed to enjoy the beauty of the sun setting over the land of fairytale dreams. We enjoyed wandering around the city palace and relaxing in the bathing room under the heat of the morning sun, sadly the palace is one of the main tourist hot spots so a number of tour operators work the floors with their translation and audio tapes, we jumped onto a couple of English tours but overall made up our own stories of the Maharaja that once lived there and took what we saw from the beauty of the Palace. My favorite room was the peacock room where magnificent tiled mosaics of peacocks stood strong on the walls making the room glisten and gleam from the vibrant colorful tiles. One afternoon we took some time out and went and lazed at a lovely hotel using the pool facilities, which was ever needed in the 40 degree heat. We used our second last evening to attend a cooking course that had been recommended to us by both our brothers and good friends, Shashi cooking class. We searched for where we thought she was based but found a derelict building with a haggard sign up, after speaking with a local business man he informed us she had moved and called her son who arranged the class for us. On arrival at Shashi home she informed us she had moved due to renovating works and was now renting this new flat (very different to the ‘typical’ Indian kitchen I had seen in family and friends photos) this place was a new build well to do spacious living area, we assumed the classes were paying off! I must admit I was a little nervous at the start of the class as didn’t really know what to expect but it turned out perfect and for the £6 we paid we definitely got our money’s worth. The class was made up of Sam and I and a group of others, we learnt how to cook so many different dishes but in the most simplest and basic form, it was great to be part of such a basic class but feeling that you were learning something new and exciting. We cooked nans, parathas and my favorite panner dishes, even being told how to make panner when home, (yes please), the energy was brilliant and it was such an experience to be part of. Shashi herself is an incredible woman and up to a number of years ago she couldn’t even speak English, after the death of her husband she started the cooking classes and now is one of the most recommended activities in Udaipur, her beauty is outstanding and her passion shines through as she teaches. When we finished the 5hrs of kitchen time we all sat down and embraced the feast we had just prepared, there was so much food it was a kings and queens feast and it was enjoyed just as much as cooking it had been.
With our time coming to an end we spent the following day walking the city and indulging in the splendor that had been given to us in our few days exploring Udaipur.


Our next stop on our Rajasthan trail was Pushkar, a good friend of mine had told me about the beauty Pushkar had to hold and my vision of this Aladdin like world with bazaars, lakes and religion was embraced into my mind, on reading up about Pushkar I read descriptions and similarities to that of Varanasi (another part of India in which we visited in 2011), Varanasi is a very religious part of India and my experience had been slightly surreal and daunting, the difference I read about Pushkar was that it was smaller and the element of death was not so prevalent as in Varanasi (people go here to die and are carried through the streets and burnt at the Ghats, meaning you see a lot of dead bodies, which is very moving but also for one who isn’t comfortable with death, it’s hard to cope with). We arrived in Pushkar in the evening, which I realized over the next two days is the best time to be in Pushkar, we headed to the lake and sat listening to the evening prayers, the sound was beautiful and so enchanting I felt I had just arrived in a land of an Indian fairy tale. We sat watching sunset around the lake for over an hour and the beauty of people bathing, believing and embracing one another was a very special moment, one I felt privileged to be able to watch and share. Our first full day in Pushkar we spent wandering the streets, looking at the local market stalls and hiding from the midday sun drinking cold coffees, the town is busy with tourists, shoppers and sellers during the day and has a completely different feel to that of an evening, it was great to be part of the hustle but with Pushkar being so small by the afternoon we were ready to head back to the lake as we had seen the sights of the town and enjoyed our bumble around. The lake again was as magical as the day before, this time we walked further around and enjoyed watching the scene from another lakeside angle.


The following day we decided to hire a scooter and head out around Pushkar, something we are delighted we did as we had the most enjoyable day getting lost in the Pushkar desert. We had been told to head to two Shiva temples and through a few local villages, we attempted to do this but got completely lost and managed to clock up around 40miles on the scooter, luckily we found petrol, as always in India it’s just a man in a village with a two litre plastic bottle full for £2, score.  Getting lost however was not a bad thing as we managed to see peacocks roaming around in the wild, we talked with a group of men at their chai stall for over an hour (bearing in mind they spoke little English and us no Hindi) in the end we decided to leave when conversations became so mixed up they thought Sam played in the IPL (we were trying to explain we are going to watch a game of the IPL). We basked in the sunshine of the roadside and met a man and his camel along the way, we drove through villages with children that became so excited at two white people one attempted to pull me off the scooter in excitement and enjoyed the open desert roads with amazing plants growing wild. At the end of the day we were so tired, we treated ourselves to a nice meal at a swanky hotel and listened to the evening prayers from the rooftop, that evening as we headed for our night bus we felt blessed at our time in Pushkar and felt a special something at the beauty it beholds.


Our next stop was Jaisalmer and we arrived in the early morning to a hoard of camel safari sellers and hotel pushers, Sam and I had only just woken so were still a bit dreamy when we jumped into a 4x4 stating they would take us to our hotel, luckily for us they did but after a few minutes of ‘no I don’t want your hotel’ we escaped to our exquisite hotel, after waking the owner up we got our room and rolled into shower, we decided we would head out and explore that morning as we knew by afternoon the desert heat of 40+ would not be our friend and sleep could be welcomed nicely at this point. We spoke with the owner and booked our camel safari for the following day so used this day to enjoy the walls of the Jaisalmer fort, Jaisalmer is renowned for its camel safaris, it’s basically where everyone comes to head out for that unique experience, Jaisalmer is also centered around an old fort, where in which people now live inside the walls of the fort with home, shops and business. We visited the fort both in the morning and afternoon and found the inside of the fort so different to how I had imagined, I wanted their to be more of a magic about it but sadly the structure had been damaged with homes being made and the sewerage system was so bad the whole place stunk of toilet, which for me was not how the inside of a castle fort would have smelt! We did however stop and talk to a man who owned a bookshop inside the fort and after taking up a chair and chatting for around an hour, the smell subsided and the interest of watching people live inside the walls took over and an understanding of how people lived became apparent. One of the main challenges with being in India is the puzzlement and attempted understanding of how people live, and not just the people with no money but the ones who do have money, no one seems to care where they rest their head and sense of living seems to be just something that happens rather than embracing the beauty of living. I challenge my thoughts with this, as is it just because I am now in a place where I lead a comfortable life and can have the things I need that make me ‘comfortable and content’, maybe for some Indian people they can’t imagine this therefore live with what they have, whereas for me being comfortable is more than one room in a cramped living environment. It then leads me to the question of how I believe I am not materialistic but are we all materialistic in a modern day society where things essentially do make us happy?! It’s a question I think I will ask throughout my whole time away, and hopefully I can find an answer I become more comfortable with, allowing me to carry on learning and developing as a 30yr old women.


We enjoyed that evening on the roof of our hotel, looking over at the fort with its stature and beauty. The next morning we woke early to head out onto our camel safari, now as blogged earlier I was unsure about doing this but after a lot of reading, speaking with like minded friends and questions to the man at our hotel I decided to go for it. It was an experience I will never forget but one that left me with uncertainty afterwards whether I agreed with camel riding. We were luckily in our group to only have three people (Sam and I being two of those three), we took a 2hr trip through the desert and it was just magical, the silence, the antelopes/spring bok prancing around, the passing goats, the stature and beauty of the camels and the prettiness of the open desert was just a sight I couldn’t have imagined or wished for, I felt so happy inside it was pure joy to be experiencing. My camel was six and was a male named babalou, he was the smallest of the camels and was definitely a bit uncertain at taking instruction, he looked after me well though and enjoyed taking his own journey whilst trotting through the desert (he also enjoyed licking Sam’s camel, which to our child like amusement was hilarious). We took shade from the blazing sun and enjoyed chai and a tasty (spicy) lunch, read our books and snoozed, the camels enjoyed a roll around in the sand and eating a bush (that we were told was like chocolate for them). After our rest we took back to our camels, the gormless beauties that they were and rode for another hour or so onto the Sam Sand dunes, I could have yelped with happiness when I saw them, I have never experienced sand dunes like it and felt in awe at the clear untouched sand lying in front of us. The camels plodded onto the dunes and with a humpty bumbty ride we arrived at our evening rest spot, we were told that five more people were joining us for the evening, which although I had enjoyed the day alone it felt safer knowing more people would be camping out with us.


Sam and I went to do the obvious in sand dunes and attempted to play in front of the setting sun, me unsuccessfully falling on my face, Sam managing a few pristine hand stands and of course the camera was capturing all the fun. It felt surreal being out on the Thar desert (the Thar desert borders India and Pakistan), my insides were so excited and I just felt I was definitely having one of those experiences that I couldn’t have at home. We enjoyed our evening meal and chatted with the others, getting handy travelling tips from a lady that lived in Indonesia and talking with others about their experiences of volunteering in India. We sneaked into our beds at around 10pm and Sam and I smiled gleefully at the magnificence of camping in the desert, under the stars in India, I fell asleep fully aware of why I had wanted to go traveling, for days and nights like this.


We awoke the next morning early, ate an interesting breakfast and started making our way back, we were on the camels for another hour, before arriving back at our 4x4 to take us back to our hotel. I was so ready to get off by the end, my bum was sore, my ribs felt like they had been on a workout and my thighs, let’s just say ouch. I also wondered at this point how the camels felt, the main man told me they would be back out this afternoon as had another safari and from talking with him it seemed over busy season it was daily safaris that occurred. I understand camels are used like horses for transporting goods but something inside of me felt uneasy at how much these camels were used and how tired they must get at the daily carrying of tourists and all the equipment/food needed for the safari. I decided that because I was asking these questions I obviously wasn’t comfortable with the camels being over worked and therefore decided that although the experience was out of this world I would think twice about riding a camel as a tourist attraction. 


What was weird after coming to this was the overwhelming sense of sadness I felt that the experience was over, I felt like what I feel like after an amazing holiday/festival and that it really was a once in a lifetime experience, so although I felt sad about the camels I was pleased I had done it (yes, contradictory I know) but this blog is about honesty and that’s how I felt. We enjoyed our last evening on the rooftop again, enjoying our last evening in this magical city, sleep took us well that night and we woke up early ready for our next stop, Punjab. 


Photos for those who are not on facebook:
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